Climbing Potash Road

We had a late morning sleep we didn’t get out of bed until about 9:30. We had to pickup camp before we headed out since it was our last night in the Slickrock camp ground. We headed into town around 10:30 for breakfast but ended up eating lunch at McDonalds since the Slickrock Café was converting their menu into lunch and it was going to be 30 minutes before they were ready. After lunch we headed out to Potash Road to see if we could climb better then we did the day before.

We were going to try to lead a 5.9 (Flakes of Wrath) but decided we would try something easier that was farther down the road. Our decision was made easier by the fact a group behind us wanted to climb the route. We moved down the road to a 5.8 (30 seconds over Potash) which would be my first lead of the day. It was a 5.8 trad lead which was close to my trad limit. We got all the climbing gear out and situated and I racked up and got ready to lead the route. I placed a nut about 15 feet up and then on the next move fell. I decided to come down and think about the route again before I continued. The route was a corner crack that was about 60 foot tall. I started again moving up the was using a layback technique. After placing a few pieces of gear I worked my way up to the section were the crack moved from the corner out to the right side of the wall. After about 30 minutes of climbing I finally made it to the top of the route with a great amount of satisfaction.

While I was leading 30 seconds over Potash Jerry decided he would lead a 5.10a sport route about 30 feet to the left of my climb. It was called Nervous in Suburbia. It was a good route with small but good hand holds. The only bad thing about it, is that it was only about 45 feet tall. After we all finish these 2 routes we headed back down to Flakes of Wrath. The group ahead of us left up their rope and said we could climb the route if we wanted to, so we decided to take advantage of their offer. They also put up a rope on a huge 5.9 roof called Bad Moki Roof, which was a route that Katie had wanted to do for a while. Since Katie had wanted to do the roof we let her go first. She finished the route after falling on the tough move that took you up over the roof. We then took turns climbing Flakes of Wrath which was a 60 foot hand crack that arches to the left at the top. Most of the route was climbed by using a hand and foot jam technique, then the top transitioned into a under cling technique. After we had all climbed Flakes of Wrath we headed over to the roof and each took our turn at it. We gave it all we had but each of us fell at the exact same point trying to pull the roof.

After we finished climbing the roof we headed into town for dinner, since Charles had to head back to New Mexico. We ate at a local pizza place called Zax’s which was a buffet. After dinner Charles headed home and we headed out to find a place to camp for the night. We decided we would camp out at the Negro Bill Canyon Campground which was just south of town near the place we ended our Porcupine Rim ride. The campsite was located right on the bank of the Colorado River. We talked Jerry into backing the Subaru down into the campsite which good thing the Sub was 4-wheel drive or we may have had to push it out, the incline into the site was pretty steep and sandy. We got the car down and setup camp. While setting up camp we had to do some repair to one of the tent poles that had broke during on of the first nights there. We ended up taking the pole apart and moving the broken section to the end and cutting off the section that was broke. After fixing the pole and setting up camp I decided to sit by the river and read some of my book Transfer of Power by Vince Flynn.

Jerry and Katie headed up to pay for the campsite. While they were paying for the campsite they though they ran into a guy that looked like Aaron Ralston who was the guy that was trapped in Blue John Canyon and had to cut off his arm to survive. When they got back they told me who they saw so I had to go take a look. I didn’t get a good look at him but they were sure it was him. They were sure it was him since he did like to stay in Moab when ever he got the chance.

Around 8:00 we decided to head back into Zax’s but this time we would just visit the bar, so we could watch the NCAA Final basketball game. In Utah the beer laws are quite different then they are in Nebraska. We had to buy a $4 membership to the bar. The thing was is that the $4 membership was good for $4 off any food purchased in the restaurant. We shared a pitcher of beer and played some pool while watching the game. After the game was over we headed back out to the campsite. I read some of my book and wrote in my journal and headed to bed around midnight.

This entry was posted in General, Moab, UT - April 2006, Troy. Bookmark the permalink.

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